Saturday, November 1, 2014

Donalda Gilchrist Samhain Mitts --- Starz Outlander Inspired

Donalda Gilchrist Samhain Fingerless Mitts

If you need help with the pattern repeat, you might find this video helpful.

These mitts are worked flat and then later seamed or joined provisionally. Keep in mind the cables are worked vertically and then the fabric is seamed/joined horizontally in order to duplicate Donalda’s mitts on Starz' Outlander.

Size: Women’s Medium (my hands measure at 7 inches around the knuckles)

Finished dimensions before seaming:  7 inches wide, 7 inches long

Us 5 / 3.75 mm

Knitpicks Wool of the Andes  -  2 skeins at 50g /110 yds each (these are done in color Wheat)

Note: 1 skein *might* be enough if doing both provisionally. Mitt pair weighs 55 grams, but the one done with provisional is 25g. The seamed one is 30g.

Either do with provisional or cast on regular to seam later on. (I made one mitt with a seam, the other provisionally)

Sl = slip
Wyif = with yarn in front
Wyib = with yarn in back
K = knit
P = purl

For the mini cables - I liked doing a shortcut so I don't have to use cable needle (see my video), or you can also do them as follows:

C1B = cable 1 back: slip st to cable needle & hold in back of work,
k off left needle, k st off cable needle.

C1F = cable 1 front: slip st to cable needle & hold in front of work,
k st off left needle, k  off cable needle.

Cast on 52.
Row 1 (RS):  Sl 1 wyif, *P2, K1, Sl 2 purlwise wyib, K1*, until 3 sts left. P2, K1.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyif, *K2, P1, Sl 2 purlwise wyif, P1*, until 3 sts left. K3.
Row 3(RS): Sl 1 wyif, *P2, C1B, C1F*, until 3 sts left. P2, K1.
Row 4(WS): Sl 1 wyif, *K2, P4*, until 3 sts left. K3.

Dont' be worried if your work is all crinkly at first. The bottom edge of this pattern will do that. All will be well. See how crinkly mine is here - the blue is waste yarn for my provisional.

Continue until 7 inches tall (or whatever length you need to fit comfortably around your hand), ending with a Row 4. Then bind off or prepare for provisional join.

Figure out where you want your thumbhole to be. (see pic). I placed mine about 2 inches in from the edge, for a length of 2 ¼  inches. Use removable markers or pins to keep your fabric lined up, matching the cables.

For seaming, I used mattress stitch.

For provisional, I used the crochet chain cast on, and then grafted the join with Kitchener  up to the thumbhole where I then used a crochet hook to bind off the live thumbhole stitches (if you know of an easier way to bind off stitches without working yarn, I’m all ears), then did Kitchener down the rest of the mitt.

Weave in ends, repeat for your 2nd mitt.

 (Please, Donalda, don't wear these while you are waulking wool. )

Mrs. Fitz Wristwarmers - Worsted Weight Yarns

Mrs. Fitz Wristwarmers for Worsted Weight Yarns

This is the same pattern as before, just slightly modified for the different size yarn/gauge. (For bulky weight/bigger gauge click here)

I made a short video tutorial on the techniques involved. I hope you find it helpful! 

Done in Malabrigo “Worsted” -used 130 yards/60 grams. Colors shown are Pearl and Frank Ochre
Gauge:  18-19 sts and 16 rows = 4 inches in arm pattern
Hook: 7 / 4.5mm
Dimensions: 7 1/2 in tall and 6 3/4 in wide before seaming. After seaming, 7 1/2 in tall and 3 1/4 in wide.


1.Chain 29 (or if you do chainless foundations, FSC 28, turn and go to Row 1)
2. Starting in the second chain of your hook, SC 28 stitches turn.

Row 1 (RS) - ch 1, SC BLO 27 , regular SC in last st, turn (28)
Row 2 (WS) - ch 1, SC FLO 27, regular SC in last st, turn (28)

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you have 27 rows. (End with a RS row)

At my gauge this was 6 3/4 inches tall in total including the foundation row. I noticed it didn’t have to be as long as it does in bulkier yarn. This fit around my forearm nicely (the short way – it will be on its side) without being frumpy. For arms and hands bigger or smaller than mine, you can make adjustments by making more or fewer rows, but please note that you will also have to make adjustments when time to do the hand portion by making more or fewer stitches. I have not tested any other sizes.


(Note: This variation of the mitt includes a cleaner join if you are making your hand a different color than the arm.)

With RS facing, turn work ¼ turn clockwise. Ch 1, then work 32 HDC evenly into this edge, turn.

Row 1 (WS) –Attach new color now (cut your arm color, leaving a tail for seaming later), then, not skipping the first stitch (OR if you are not changing color, ch 1, then, not skipping the first stitch-) work HDC into the 3rd LIF (loop in front) for 32 sts, turn. (32)

Row 2 (RS) – ch 1, HDC BLO 31, work last HDC as normal, turn (32)
Repeat rows 1 and 2, then row 1 a final time so you end on a WS row. (You can certainly make the hand as long or short as you like, just end on a WS row so your scallops are facing right way.)

At your last stitch, if you use the same yarn, turn your work and do scalloped edge as such:

(RS) ch1, 3 HDC in that same stitch, sl next st, *3 HDC in next st, sl next st* 

OR, if you are attaching new color, turn your work and add new yarn in first stitch, then *3HDC in next stitch, sl next st*

Weave in ends and stitch up seams. Admire your work.