Donalda Gilchrist Samhain Mitts --- Starz Outlander Inspired

Donalda Gilchrist Samhain Fingerless Mitts

If you need help with the pattern repeat, you might find this video helpful.

These mitts are worked flat and then later seamed or joined provisionally. Keep in mind the cables are worked vertically and then the fabric is seamed/joined horizontally in order to duplicate Donalda’s mitts on Starz' Outlander.

Size: Women’s Medium (my hands measure at 7 inches around the knuckles)

Finished dimensions before seaming:  7 inches wide, 7 inches long

Us 5 / 3.75 mm

Knitpicks Wool of the Andes  -  2 skeins at 50g /110 yds each (these are done in color Wheat)

Note: 1 skein *might* be enough if doing both provisionally. Mitt pair weighs 55 grams, but the one done with provisional is 25g. The seamed one is 30g.

Either do with provisional or cast on regular to seam later on. (I made one mitt with a seam, the other provisionally)

Abbreviations:

Sl = slip

Wyif = with yarn in front

Wyib = with yarn in back

K = knit

P = purl

For the mini cables - I liked doing a shortcut so I don't have to use cable needle (see my video), or you can also do them as follows:

C1B = cable 1 back: slip st to cable needle & hold in back of work,

k off left needle, k st off cable needle.

C1F = cable 1 front: slip st to cable needle & hold in front of work,

k st off left needle, k  off cable needle.

Pattern:

Cast on 52.

Row 1 (RS):  Sl 1 wyif, *P2, K1, Sl 2 purlwise wyib, K1*, until 3 sts left. P2, K1.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyif, *K2, P1, Sl 2 purlwise wyif, P1*, until 3 sts left. K3.

Row 3(RS): Sl 1 wyif, *P2, C1B, C1F*, until 3 sts left. P2, K1.

Row 4(WS): Sl 1 wyif, *K2, P4*, until 3 sts left. K3.

Dont' be worried if your work is all crinkly at first. The bottom edge of this pattern will do that. All will be well. See how crinkly mine is here - the blue is waste yarn for my provisional.

Continue until 7 inches tall (or whatever length you need to fit comfortably around your hand), ending with a Row 4. Then bind off or prepare for provisional join.

Figure out where you want your thumbhole to be. (see pic). I placed mine about 2 inches in from the edge, for a length of 2 ¼  inches. Use removable markers or pins to keep your fabric lined up, matching the cables.

For seaming, I used mattress stitch.

For provisional, I used the crochet chain cast on, and then grafted the join with Kitchener  up to the thumbhole where I then used a crochet hook to bind off the live thumbhole stitches (if you know of an easier way to bind off stitches without working yarn, I’m all ears), then did Kitchener down the rest of the mitt.

Weave in ends, repeat for your 2^nd mitt.

 (Please, Donalda, don't wear these while you are waulking wool. )

Mrs. Fitz Wristwarmers - Worsted Weight Yarns

Mrs. Fitz Wristwarmers for Worsted Weight Yarns

This is the same pattern as before, just slightly modified for the different size yarn/gauge. (For bulky weight/bigger gauge click here)

I made a short video tutorial on the techniques involved. I hope you find it helpful! 

Done in Malabrigo “Worsted” -used 130 yards/60 grams. Colors shown are Pearl and Frank Ochre

Gauge:  18-19 sts and 16 rows = 4 inches in arm pattern

Hook: 7 / 4.5mm
Dimensions: 7 1/2 in tall and 6 3/4 in wide before seaming. After seaming, 7 1/2 in tall and 3 1/4 in wide.

ARM:

Foundation:

1.Chain 29 (or if you do chainless foundations, FSC 28, turn and go to Row 1)
2. Starting in the second chain of your hook, SC 28 stitches turn.

Row 1 (RS) - ch 1, SC BLO 27 , regular SC in last st, turn (28)

Row 2 (WS) - ch 1, SC FLO 27, regular SC in last st, turn (28)

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you have 27 rows. (End with a RS row)

At my gauge this was 6 3/4 inches tall in total including the foundation row. I noticed it didn’t have to be as long as it does in bulkier yarn. This fit around my forearm nicely (the short way – it will be on its side) without being frumpy. For arms and hands bigger or smaller than mine, you can make adjustments by making more or fewer rows, but please note that you will also have to make adjustments when time to do the hand portion by making more or fewer stitches. I have not tested any other sizes.

HAND:

(Note: This variation of the mitt includes a cleaner join if you are making your hand a different color than the arm.)

With RS facing, turn work ¼ turn clockwise. Ch 1, then work 32 HDC evenly into this edge, turn.

Row 1 (WS) –Attach new color now (cut your arm color, leaving a tail for seaming later), then, not skipping the first stitch (OR if you are not changing color, ch 1, then, not skipping the first stitch-) work HDC into the 3^rd LIF (loop in front) for 32 sts, turn. (32)

Row 2 (RS) – ch 1, HDC BLO 31, work last HDC as normal, turn (32)

Repeat rows 1 and 2, then row 1 a final time so you end on a WS row. (You can certainly make the hand as long or short as you like, just end on a WS row so your scallops are facing right way.)

At your last stitch, if you use the same yarn, turn your work and do scalloped edge as such:

(RS) ch1, 3 HDC in that same stitch, sl next st, *3 HDC in next st, sl next st* 

OR, if you are attaching new color, turn your work and add new yarn in first stitch, then *3HDC in next stitch, sl next st*

Weave in ends and stitch up seams. Admire your work.

Mrs. Fitz Wrist Warmers Bulky Yarn - Variation on the Mini Mitts V 1.0

Needed a break from my knitting - I was getting hand cramps suddenly. I think its the shorter needle tips I've been employing, so in future I'll try longer tips. For now though I need to whip up a couple of quick gifts, so back to crochet. I did a variation of my Mrs. Fitz Mini Mitts (v 1.0). These are the same except there is no thumbhole and I added a decorative scalloped edge. Very easy to make, comfortable to wear, and pretty to look at. 

For the original pattern please see here . Below is where the hand picks up, along with the slight modifications.

Mrs. Fitz Wrist Warmers - Bulky Yarn

(Done with  5.5 mm / US size i hook in Malabrigo Mecha bulky yarn in a gauge of 16-17 sts and 14 rows = 4 inches in arm pattern)

HAND:

Note: This variation of the mitt includes a cleaner join if you are making your hand a different color than the arm.

With RS facing, turn work ¼ turn clockwise. Ch 1, then work 27 HDC evenly into this edge, turn.

Row 1 (WS) –Attach new color now (cut your arm color, leaving a tail for seaming later), then, not skipping the first stitch (or if you are not changing color, ch 1, then, not skipping the first stitch-) work HDC into the 3^rd LIF (loop in front) for 27 sts, turn. (27)

Row 2 (RS) – ch 1, HDC BLO 26, work last HDC as normal, turn (27)

Repeat rows 1 and 2, then row 1 a final time so you end on a WS row. (You can certainly make the hand as long or short as you like, just end on a WS row)

At your last stitch, if you use the same yarn, turn your work and do scalloped edge as such:

(RS) ch1,  3 HDC in that same stitch, sl next st, *3 HDC in next st, sl next st* 

or, if you are attaching new color, turn your work and add new yarn in first stitch, then *3HDC in next stitch, sl next st*

Weave in ends and stitch up seams. 

:)

before seaming

Version 2.0 Mrs. Fitz-Inspired Crocheted Mini Mitts - Bulkier Yarn-Outlander Free Pattern

My first version of these mitts (from an earlier post) was worked in Malabrigo Mecha, which is classified as bulky yarn. I decided to make a pair in another bulky yarn, also by Malabrigo, called “Chunky”. The difference in the size of these yarns - though they are in the same weight class and even made by the same company -  is significant. “Mecha” gets you 130 yards per 100 grams. “Chunky” gets you 100 yards per 100 grams. 

These seem like boring mathematical details when you’re itching to crochet up something, but I had to alter the original pattern in order to get correct results, so it does indeed make a difference and goes to show that the weight system is only a guideline.

Other changes in this 2.0 pattern also include a cleaner join where the color change occurs (if you’re not changing colors it is still cleaner). There is a right hand and left hand, instead of an interchangeable set. This allows for better seam placement and I think may also lend a more comfortable fit.

Mrs. Fitz Mini Mitts Crocheted Version 2.0

Hook: 5.5mm / US size i

Yarn: Malabrigo “Chunky” 100 yards/100 grams. 1 skein is *just* enough to make 1 pair in 1 solid color. I bought 2 skeins so I could combine colors. I have enough to make 2 pairs. Each mitt weights 50 grams, which is 50 yards of this yarn.

Size: Women’s Medium

Dimensions:

Flat before seaming: 9 in tall, 7 ½ in wide

Tube, after seaming: 9 in tall, 3 ½  in wide

Gauge: 14 sts and 12 rows = 4 inches in arm pattern

Boring Mumbo Jumbo section (same as version 1.0 except no Tr crochet)

Stitches used:

SC- single crochet

SC BLO – single crochet back loop only

SC FLO – single crochet front loop only

HDC BLO – half double crochet back loop only

HDC 3^rd LIF – half double crochet through 3^rd Loop In Front

DC – double crochet

Method:

The arm is worked first, then you turn your work ¼ turn clockwise to work the hand. The thumb is created by skipping stitches and making a chain as a bridge over those stitches. These mitts are worked flat and seamed when finishing.

Pattern Oddities and Necessary Blathering:

- I don’t skip the first stitch in every row when doing HDC. I treat it like a SC, really. This keeps edges tidy and less holey. Even though we’re seaming the edges, it’s not a place you want holes.

- I only ch1 for my turning chain on HDC.  I think the fabric looks nicer.

-The last stitch of every row is worked as you normal would (under both loops/legs). This keeps your edges tidy and less holey.

-The stitches for the arm are SC but worked in BLO and FLO. The hand portion is mostly HDC, but worked in either the BLO or through the 3^rd loop in the front (LIF).

If the BLO, FLO, or LIF terms frighten you, here are some wonderful video explanations:

SC BLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsd8K5MghDQ                   

SC FLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jM5Me5U2dnE

HDC BLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSArrbxzOhA

HDC 3^rd Loop in Front (LIF) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2nyqJZBfvA and a nice blog post about this elusive stitch it at http://crochetpatterncompanion.blogspot.com/2014/06/how-to-crochet-into-that-third-loop-or.html

Ok enough with the boring mumbojumbo, let’s start crocheting!!

PATTERN

ARM:

Foundation Row:

1. ch  21 (or if you do chainless foundations, FSC 20, turn and go to Row 1)

2. Starting in the second chain of your hook, SC 20 stitches, turn.

Row 1 (RS) – ch 1, SC BLO 19, SC in last st, turn. (20)

Row 2 (WS) – ch 1, SC FLO 19, SC in last st, turn. (20)

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you have worked 21 rows. (end with a RS row)

This fit around my forearm nicely (the short way – it will be on its side) without being frumpy. For arms and hands bigger or smaller than mine, you can make adjustments by making more or fewer rows, but please note that you will also have to make adjustments when time to do the hand portion by making more or fewer stitches. I have not tested any other sizes.

BOTH HANDS:

With RS facing, turn work ¼ turn clockwise and Ch 1, then work 23 HDC evenly into the edge, turn. Doing this row in the same color as the arm gives you a cleaner transition into the second color. 

see how clean color change is on the left 2.0 compared to the right 1.0

Row 1 (WS) – If you are using a new color for hand, attach it now which counts as a ch 1 (cut your arm yarn, leaving 18 inch tail for seaming later). If you are not changing colors, then ch 1 and don’t cut your yarn. 

Not skipping the first stitch, work HDC into the 3^rd LIF all 23 sts, turn. (23)

Proceed to the left hand / right hand instructions.

LEFT HAND:

Row 2 (RS) – ((thumbhole row)) ch 1, HDC BLO 5, DC 1, ch 5 , skip the 5 sts under them, DC 1, HDC BLO 10, HDC 1, turn. (23)

Row 3 (WS) – ch 1, HDC LIF 12, HDC into back bumps of each ch (5), HDC LIF 5, HDC 1, turn. (23)

Row 4 (RS) – ch 1, HDC BLO 22, HDC 1, turn. (23)

Row 5 (WS) – ch 1, HDC LIF 22, HDC 1, turn. (23)

Row 6 (RS) – work as row 4

Row 7 (WS) – work as row 5

Cut yarn, leaving a tail to seam with. Give yourself 24 inches or so tail to seam with if you used 1 color for your mitts. If you did hand in different color you only need 10 inches or so to seam it, and then you’ll pick up your other color tail to seam the arm portion.

RIGHT HAND:

Row 2 (RS) - ((thumbhole row)) ch 1, HDC BLO 11, DC 1, ch 5, skip the 5 sts under them, DC 1, HDC BLO 4, HDC 1, turn. (23)

Row 3 (WS) – ch 1, HDC LIF 6, HDC into the back bumps of each ch (5), HDC LIF 11, HDC 1, turn. (23)

Row 4 (RS) – ch 1, HDC BLO 22, HDC 1, turn. (23)

Row 5 (WS) – ch 1, HDC LIF 22, HDC 1, turn. (23)

Row 6 (RS) – Work as row 4

Row 7 (WS) – Work as row 5

Cut yarn, leaving a tail to seam with. Give yourself 24 inches or so tail to seam with if you used 1 color for your mitts. If you did hand in different color you only need 10 inches or so to seam it, and then you’ll pick up your other color tail to seam the arm portion.

Finishing Instructions for both mitts:

Weave in ends. Fold mitts with RS out and sew your seams shut, then weave in your seam tail ends.

 Good work!!!!

Please let me know if you have any questions. This pattern has been checked and edited but if you think there are errors, let me know! :)

Mrs.Fitz Inspired Mini Mitts Crocheted Version Outlander - Free Pattern- Version 1.0

 Mrs. Fitz Mini Mitts – Crochet Version 

Well it took a bit of meandering but I finally got results I'm happy with. I had recently put up a knitted pattern of Mrs. Fitz' mitts, and wanted to then work up a crocheted version. Initially I set out to make them as similar as possible (knit sts and crochet sts don't really look the same), but these sort of developed, and I like them, so I just went with the flow. They still look like something you could wear while toddling about the castle, but a bit dressier.

 Perhaps Mrs. Fitz would wear them on a night out.

I hope you like them too!

Hook:

5.5 mm / US size i

Yarn:  Malabrigo Mecha 

UPDATE***********This yarn is classified as bulky weight, but if you have yarn that is even bulkier, I will be posting an alteration of this pattern for a bigger gauge on 9/29/14***********

Malabrigo Mecha merino wool 1 skein (130 yards/100 grams) is just enough for 1 pair if doing in 1 color at this size. If you need to make pattern adjustments for a larger size, you would need 2 skeins/extra yardage. I got 2 skeins (260 yards) so I could combine 2 colors.

Size: Women’s medium

Dimensions:

Flat before seaming : 8 ½ in tall, 7 ¼ in wide

Tube, after seaming:  8 ½ in tall, 3 ¼ in wide

Gauge: 16-17 stitches and 14 rows = 4 inches in arm pattern

Stitches used:

SC- single crochet

SC BLO – single crochet back loop only

SC FLO – single crochet front loop only

HDC BLO – half double crochet back loop only

HDC 3^rd LIF – half double crochet through 3^rd Loop In Front

DC – double crochet

TR – treble crochet

Method:

The arm is worked first, then you turn your work ¼ turn clockwise to work the hand. The thumb is created by skipping stitches and making a chain as a bridge over those stitches. These mitts are worked flat and seamed when finishing.

Pattern Oddities and Necessary Blathering:

- I don’t skip the first stitch in every row when doing HDC. I treat it like a SC, really. This keeps edges tidy and less holey. Even though we’re seaming the edges, it’s not a place you want holes.

- I only ch1 for my turning chain on HDC.  I think the fabric looks nicer.

-The last stitch of every row is worked as you normal would (under both loops/legs). This keeps your edges tidy and less holey.

-The stitches for the arm are SC but worked in BLO and FLO. The hand portion is mostly HDC, but worked in either the BLO or through the 3^rd loop in the front (LIF).

If the BLO, FLO, or LIF terms frighten you, here are some wonderful video explanations:

SC BLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsd8K5MghDQ                   

SC FLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jM5Me5U2dnE

HDC BLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSArrbxzOhA

HDC 3^rd Loop in Front - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2nyqJZBfvA 

and a nice blog post about this elusive stitch it at http://crochetpatterncompanion.blogspot.com/2014/06/how-to-crochet-into-that-third-loop-or.html

PATTERN

  

ARM:

Foundation Row:

1.  Chain 25 (or if you do chainless foundations, FSC 24, turn and go to Row 1)
2. Starting in the second chain of your hook, SC 24 stitches turn.

Row 1 (RS) - ch 1, SC BLO 23, regular SC in last st, turn (24)

Row 2 (WS) - ch 1, SC FLO 23, regular SC in last st, turn (24)

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you have 25 rows. (End with a RS row)

At my gauge this was 7 ¼ inches tall in total including the foundation row. This fit around my forearm nicely (the short way – it will be on its side) without being frumpy. For arms and hands bigger or smaller than mine, you can make adjustments by making more or fewer rows, but please note that you will also have to make adjustments when time to do the hand portion by making more or fewer stitches. I have not tested any other sizes.

HAND:

If you are going to make your hand with a different color, cut your arm yarn now, leaving an 18 inch tail for seaming later. If all one color, don’t cut.

With RS facing, turn work ¼ turn clockwise and attach new yarn color in the upper right hand stitch.

Work 27 HDC evenly into this edge, turn.

Row 1 (WS) – ch 1, not skipping the first stitch, work HDC into the 3^rd LIF for 26 sts, and work the last HDC as normal, turn. (27)

Row 2 (RS) – ((thumbhole row)) ch 1, HDC BLO 8, DC 1, Tr 1, make a chain of 6, skip the 6 sts under them, Tr 1, DC 1, HDC BLO 8, HDC last st, turn. (27)

Left pic shows the stitches and the ch6 before the “jump” for the thumbhole. Right pic shows the completed Tr after the jump. Note the 6 skipped stitches. The Tr is worked into the 7th st.

Row 3 (WS) – ch 1, not skipping the first stitch, work HDC into the 3^rd LIF 11 sts, HDC into the back bump of each ch st (6), HDC into the 3^rd LIF 9 sts,  and work the last HDC as normal, turn. (27)

Row 4 (RS) – ch 1, not skipping the first stitch, work HDC BLO 26 sts, and work the last HDC as normal, turn. (27)

Row 5 (WS) – work as Row 1

Row 6 (RS) – work as Row 4

Repeat rows 5 and 6 until hand portion reaches 2 inches tall and ending on a RS row. Cut yarn, leaving a tail to seam with. Give yourself 24 inches or so tail to seam with if you used 1 color for your mitts. If you did hand in different color you only need 10 inches or so to seam it, and then you’ll pick up your other color tail to seam the arm portion.

Before you do your seam, however, weave in your ends. It’s just easier that way.

Right Side

Wrong side

Use clips while seaming

SEAMING:

Then, fold WS together. Using clips/locking stitch markers to line up the stitches and hold your work together while you seam is a good idea, removing as you approach them. Use them as checkpoints to make sure you are seaming equally so your mitt seams won’t be lopsided. I used a mattress stitch.

Here’s a good video if you need some help with that:

http://youtu.be/xzl7IpgTtXQ

Weave in your seaming yarn tail ends.

PAT YOURSELF ON THE BACK (with your toasty mitts on, of course).

Update 10/14/14: I also did a slight modification for a wrist warmer - you can find the pattern alteration here. 

This pattern has been tested and spot checked. Please alert me to any suspected errors, or if you have any questions at all. Project file can also be found on Ravelry.

Outlander Inspired Crocheted Claire Shrug

Hello all! Here is a crocheted version inspired by the shrug Claire was wearing when she first met Geillis. I posted a knitted version several posts back, and I used the same yarn for this one. The stitch pattern develops from alternating front-loop-only (FLO) and back-loop-only (BLO) rows all in HDC.

If you are a beginner don't let those terms scare you. Here are great videos by CrochetEverAfter to explain how to do the FLO and BLO in HDC.

 I hope you like it!

HOOK: J HOOK / 6.0 MM

YARN: ARAN WEIGHT - BERROCO PERUVIA COLORS 2 SKEINS (348 YARDS)

Gauge: 13 stitches and 11 rows = 4 inches

Size: Medium Women's

Dimensions: 12 inches tall, 33 inches wide

PATTERN:

Set up rows:

1. Chain 110 (or if you do a foundation row, work 109 FHDC, turn and go to Row 1)

2. Starting in the 2nd chain from your hook, work a row of HDC, turn (109 st)

DO NOT SKIP TO THE 2ND STITCH WHEN WORKING YOUR HDC'S FOR THE REMAINDER OF THIS PROJECT (why? because it looks better if you work into the first stitch, just like you would for a SC)

Row 1 (wrong side): Ch 1, Work HDC in BLO until you have 1 st left, do a HDC into that last stitch under both loops instead of just the BL, turn. (109 st)

Row 2 (right side) : Ch 1, Work HDC in FLO until you have 1 st left, do a HDC into that last stitch under both loops instead of just the FL, turn. (109 st)

why work that last HDC into both legs/loops at the end of every row? because your edges will look better than if you work that final stitch through the BL or FL

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have 12 inch tall piece of fabric. For me this was 30 rows. End with a right side row (row 2). why end with a row 2? because it doesn't curl outwards like row 1 does.

Figure out how long you want your underarm seams to be. I used hair clips to hold the fabric while trying it on. My underarm seams were 5 inches. I did a simple seam, nothing fancy.

Weave in your ends.

Extra Notes and Stuff:

Pattern is also on Ravelry http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/claire-crocheted-shrug-starz-outlander-inspired

If you need to change the dimensions, like make the arms longer or the back longer, etc, you will need more yarn than what I used. I used up nearly the whole 2 skeins of my berroco on this, so if you are using this yarn and you wanted to make a bigger shrug, you would need 3 skeins. I estimated every row takes about 10 yards of yarn but don't hold me to that.

What if you like the wrong side better than the right side? Choose whatever side you like to face outwards. I prefer the right side stitches to face out, thats all. Its your shrug so you do what you want! :)