Monday, September 29, 2014

Version 2.0 Mrs. Fitz-Inspired Crocheted Mini Mitts - Bulkier Yarn-Outlander Free Pattern





My first version of these mitts (from an earlier post) was worked in Malabrigo Mecha, which is classified as bulky yarn. I decided to make a pair in another bulky yarn, also by Malabrigo, called “Chunky”. The difference in the size of these yarns - though they are in the same weight class and even made by the same company -  is significant. “Mecha” gets you 130 yards per 100 grams. “Chunky” gets you 100 yards per 100 grams. 

These seem like boring mathematical details when you’re itching to crochet up something, but I had to alter the original pattern in order to get correct results, so it does indeed make a difference and goes to show that the weight system is only a guideline.


Other changes in this 2.0 pattern also include a cleaner join where the color change occurs (if you’re not changing colors it is still cleaner). There is a right hand and left hand, instead of an interchangeable set. This allows for better seam placement and I think may also lend a more comfortable fit.


Mrs. Fitz Mini Mitts Crocheted Version 2.0





Hook: 5.5mm / US size i

Yarn: Malabrigo “Chunky” 100 yards/100 grams. 1 skein is *just* enough to make 1 pair in 1 solid color. I bought 2 skeins so I could combine colors. I have enough to make 2 pairs. Each mitt weights 50 grams, which is 50 yards of this yarn.

Size: Women’s Medium

Dimensions:

Flat before seaming: 9 in tall, 7 ½ in wide
Tube, after seaming: 9 in tall, 3 ½  in wide

Gauge: 14 sts and 12 rows = 4 inches in arm pattern



Boring Mumbo Jumbo section (same as version 1.0 except no Tr crochet)


Stitches used:

SC- single crochet
SC BLO – single crochet back loop only
SC FLO – single crochet front loop only
HDC BLO – half double crochet back loop only
HDC 3rd LIF – half double crochet through 3rd Loop In Front
DC – double crochet

Method:

The arm is worked first, then you turn your work ¼ turn clockwise to work the hand. The thumb is created by skipping stitches and making a chain as a bridge over those stitches. These mitts are worked flat and seamed when finishing.

Pattern Oddities and Necessary Blathering:

- I don’t skip the first stitch in every row when doing HDC. I treat it like a SC, really. This keeps edges tidy and less holey. Even though we’re seaming the edges, it’s not a place you want holes.
- I only ch1 for my turning chain on HDC.  I think the fabric looks nicer.
-The last stitch of every row is worked as you normal would (under both loops/legs). This keeps your edges tidy and less holey.
-The stitches for the arm are SC but worked in BLO and FLO. The hand portion is mostly HDC, but worked in either the BLO or through the 3rd loop in the front (LIF).
If the BLO, FLO, or LIF terms frighten you, here are some wonderful video explanations:
SC BLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsd8K5MghDQ                   


Ok enough with the boring mumbojumbo, let’s start crocheting!!


PATTERN

ARM:

Foundation Row:

1. ch  21 (or if you do chainless foundations, FSC 20, turn and go to Row 1)
2. Starting in the second chain of your hook, SC 20 stitches, turn.

Row 1 (RS) – ch 1, SC BLO 19, SC in last st, turn. (20)
Row 2 (WS) – ch 1, SC FLO 19, SC in last st, turn. (20)

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you have worked 21 rows. (end with a RS row)

This fit around my forearm nicely (the short way – it will be on its side) without being frumpy. For arms and hands bigger or smaller than mine, you can make adjustments by making more or fewer rows, but please note that you will also have to make adjustments when time to do the hand portion by making more or fewer stitches. I have not tested any other sizes.

BOTH HANDS:

With RS facing, turn work ¼ turn clockwise and Ch 1, then work 23 HDC evenly into the edge, turn. Doing this row in the same color as the arm gives you a cleaner transition into the second color. 

see how clean color change is on the left 2.0 compared to the right 1.0




Row 1 (WS) – If you are using a new color for hand, attach it now which counts as a ch 1 (cut your arm yarn, leaving 18 inch tail for seaming later). If you are not changing colors, then ch 1 and don’t cut your yarn. 
Not skipping the first stitch, work HDC into the 3rd LIF all 23 sts, turn. (23)

Proceed to the left hand / right hand instructions.

LEFT HAND:

Row 2 (RS) – ((thumbhole row)) ch 1, HDC BLO 5, DC 1, ch 5 , skip the 5 sts under them, DC 1, HDC BLO 10, HDC 1, turn. (23)
Row 3 (WS) – ch 1, HDC LIF 12, HDC into back bumps of each ch (5), HDC LIF 5, HDC 1, turn. (23)
Row 4 (RS) – ch 1, HDC BLO 22, HDC 1, turn. (23)
Row 5 (WS) – ch 1, HDC LIF 22, HDC 1, turn. (23)
Row 6 (RS) – work as row 4
Row 7 (WS) – work as row 5

Cut yarn, leaving a tail to seam with. Give yourself 24 inches or so tail to seam with if you used 1 color for your mitts. If you did hand in different color you only need 10 inches or so to seam it, and then you’ll pick up your other color tail to seam the arm portion.

RIGHT HAND:

Row 2 (RS) - ((thumbhole row)) ch 1, HDC BLO 11, DC 1, ch 5, skip the 5 sts under them, DC 1, HDC BLO 4, HDC 1, turn. (23)
Row 3 (WS) – ch 1, HDC LIF 6, HDC into the back bumps of each ch (5), HDC LIF 11, HDC 1, turn. (23)
Row 4 (RS) – ch 1, HDC BLO 22, HDC 1, turn. (23)
Row 5 (WS) – ch 1, HDC LIF 22, HDC 1, turn. (23)
Row 6 (RS) – Work as row 4
Row 7 (WS) – Work as row 5

Cut yarn, leaving a tail to seam with. Give yourself 24 inches or so tail to seam with if you used 1 color for your mitts. If you did hand in different color you only need 10 inches or so to seam it, and then you’ll pick up your other color tail to seam the arm portion.


Finishing Instructions for both mitts:

Weave in ends. Fold mitts with RS out and sew your seams shut, then weave in your seam tail ends.

 Good work!!!!

Please let me know if you have any questions. This pattern has been checked and edited but if you think there are errors, let me know! :)







3 comments:

  1. I'm assuming the foundation row should say ch 21? :)

    I made the following adjustments for a "super bulky" weight and they turned out great! I used a smaller hook than the wool suggested - 10 J. I cast on 16 so had 15 stitches across for the arm part. I worked 17 rows before turning to do the hand part. I ended up working 17 HDC for the hand rows, so the thumbhole row was: HDC BLO 5, DC 1, ch 3 , skip the 3 sts under them, DC 1, HDC BLO 6, HDC 1, turn. I just did 2 more rows after the thumbhole row.

    I made your previous pattern and found that they turned out a bit large. I found that I need to make them a bit smaller than it looks like when they're in the works. For these ones, it didn't look like they would quite fit together around my arm, but when I got them all sewed together, they fit great! I know they will stretch out a bit over time, too.

    Thanks for the great pattern!!

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    Replies
    1. hi kim! haha yes it should've been ch 21. thanks for that. i have fixed it. seems no matter how many times a pattern is checked for errors, one always sneaks through!

      i'm glad you found a way to make a pair that fits just right for you! :) i wear mine all the time, finding them very warm and comfy.

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