Mrs.Fitz Inspired Mini Mitts Crocheted Version Outlander - Free Pattern- Version 1.0

 Mrs. Fitz Mini Mitts – Crochet Version 

Well it took a bit of meandering but I finally got results I'm happy with. I had recently put up a knitted pattern of Mrs. Fitz' mitts, and wanted to then work up a crocheted version. Initially I set out to make them as similar as possible (knit sts and crochet sts don't really look the same), but these sort of developed, and I like them, so I just went with the flow. They still look like something you could wear while toddling about the castle, but a bit dressier.

 Perhaps Mrs. Fitz would wear them on a night out.

I hope you like them too!

Hook:

5.5 mm / US size i

Yarn:  Malabrigo Mecha 

UPDATE***********This yarn is classified as bulky weight, but if you have yarn that is even bulkier, I will be posting an alteration of this pattern for a bigger gauge on 9/29/14***********

Malabrigo Mecha merino wool 1 skein (130 yards/100 grams) is just enough for 1 pair if doing in 1 color at this size. If you need to make pattern adjustments for a larger size, you would need 2 skeins/extra yardage. I got 2 skeins (260 yards) so I could combine 2 colors.

Size: Women’s medium

Dimensions:

Flat before seaming : 8 ½ in tall, 7 ¼ in wide

Tube, after seaming:  8 ½ in tall, 3 ¼ in wide

Gauge: 16-17 stitches and 14 rows = 4 inches in arm pattern

Stitches used:

SC- single crochet

SC BLO – single crochet back loop only

SC FLO – single crochet front loop only

HDC BLO – half double crochet back loop only

HDC 3^rd LIF – half double crochet through 3^rd Loop In Front

DC – double crochet

TR – treble crochet

Method:

The arm is worked first, then you turn your work ¼ turn clockwise to work the hand. The thumb is created by skipping stitches and making a chain as a bridge over those stitches. These mitts are worked flat and seamed when finishing.

Pattern Oddities and Necessary Blathering:

- I don’t skip the first stitch in every row when doing HDC. I treat it like a SC, really. This keeps edges tidy and less holey. Even though we’re seaming the edges, it’s not a place you want holes.

- I only ch1 for my turning chain on HDC.  I think the fabric looks nicer.

-The last stitch of every row is worked as you normal would (under both loops/legs). This keeps your edges tidy and less holey.

-The stitches for the arm are SC but worked in BLO and FLO. The hand portion is mostly HDC, but worked in either the BLO or through the 3^rd loop in the front (LIF).

If the BLO, FLO, or LIF terms frighten you, here are some wonderful video explanations:

SC BLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsd8K5MghDQ                   

SC FLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jM5Me5U2dnE

HDC BLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSArrbxzOhA

HDC 3^rd Loop in Front - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2nyqJZBfvA 

and a nice blog post about this elusive stitch it at http://crochetpatterncompanion.blogspot.com/2014/06/how-to-crochet-into-that-third-loop-or.html

PATTERN

  

ARM:

Foundation Row:

1.  Chain 25 (or if you do chainless foundations, FSC 24, turn and go to Row 1)
2. Starting in the second chain of your hook, SC 24 stitches turn.

Row 1 (RS) - ch 1, SC BLO 23, regular SC in last st, turn (24)

Row 2 (WS) - ch 1, SC FLO 23, regular SC in last st, turn (24)

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you have 25 rows. (End with a RS row)

At my gauge this was 7 ¼ inches tall in total including the foundation row. This fit around my forearm nicely (the short way – it will be on its side) without being frumpy. For arms and hands bigger or smaller than mine, you can make adjustments by making more or fewer rows, but please note that you will also have to make adjustments when time to do the hand portion by making more or fewer stitches. I have not tested any other sizes.

HAND:

If you are going to make your hand with a different color, cut your arm yarn now, leaving an 18 inch tail for seaming later. If all one color, don’t cut.

With RS facing, turn work ¼ turn clockwise and attach new yarn color in the upper right hand stitch.

Work 27 HDC evenly into this edge, turn.

Row 1 (WS) – ch 1, not skipping the first stitch, work HDC into the 3^rd LIF for 26 sts, and work the last HDC as normal, turn. (27)

Row 2 (RS) – ((thumbhole row)) ch 1, HDC BLO 8, DC 1, Tr 1, make a chain of 6, skip the 6 sts under them, Tr 1, DC 1, HDC BLO 8, HDC last st, turn. (27)

Left pic shows the stitches and the ch6 before the “jump” for the thumbhole. Right pic shows the completed Tr after the jump. Note the 6 skipped stitches. The Tr is worked into the 7th st.

Row 3 (WS) – ch 1, not skipping the first stitch, work HDC into the 3^rd LIF 11 sts, HDC into the back bump of each ch st (6), HDC into the 3^rd LIF 9 sts,  and work the last HDC as normal, turn. (27)

Row 4 (RS) – ch 1, not skipping the first stitch, work HDC BLO 26 sts, and work the last HDC as normal, turn. (27)

Row 5 (WS) – work as Row 1

Row 6 (RS) – work as Row 4

Repeat rows 5 and 6 until hand portion reaches 2 inches tall and ending on a RS row. Cut yarn, leaving a tail to seam with. Give yourself 24 inches or so tail to seam with if you used 1 color for your mitts. If you did hand in different color you only need 10 inches or so to seam it, and then you’ll pick up your other color tail to seam the arm portion.

Before you do your seam, however, weave in your ends. It’s just easier that way.

Right Side

Wrong side

Use clips while seaming

SEAMING:

Then, fold WS together. Using clips/locking stitch markers to line up the stitches and hold your work together while you seam is a good idea, removing as you approach them. Use them as checkpoints to make sure you are seaming equally so your mitt seams won’t be lopsided. I used a mattress stitch.

Here’s a good video if you need some help with that:

http://youtu.be/xzl7IpgTtXQ

Weave in your seaming yarn tail ends.

PAT YOURSELF ON THE BACK (with your toasty mitts on, of course).

Update 10/14/14: I also did a slight modification for a wrist warmer - you can find the pattern alteration here. 

This pattern has been tested and spot checked. Please alert me to any suspected errors, or if you have any questions at all. Project file can also be found on Ravelry.