Version 2.0 Mrs. Fitz-Inspired Crocheted Mini Mitts - Bulkier Yarn-Outlander Free Pattern

My first version of these mitts (from an earlier post) was worked in Malabrigo Mecha, which is classified as bulky yarn. I decided to make a pair in another bulky yarn, also by Malabrigo, called “Chunky”. The difference in the size of these yarns - though they are in the same weight class and even made by the same company -  is significant. “Mecha” gets you 130 yards per 100 grams. “Chunky” gets you 100 yards per 100 grams. 

These seem like boring mathematical details when you’re itching to crochet up something, but I had to alter the original pattern in order to get correct results, so it does indeed make a difference and goes to show that the weight system is only a guideline.

Other changes in this 2.0 pattern also include a cleaner join where the color change occurs (if you’re not changing colors it is still cleaner). There is a right hand and left hand, instead of an interchangeable set. This allows for better seam placement and I think may also lend a more comfortable fit.

Mrs. Fitz Mini Mitts Crocheted Version 2.0

Hook: 5.5mm / US size i

Yarn: Malabrigo “Chunky” 100 yards/100 grams. 1 skein is *just* enough to make 1 pair in 1 solid color. I bought 2 skeins so I could combine colors. I have enough to make 2 pairs. Each mitt weights 50 grams, which is 50 yards of this yarn.

Size: Women’s Medium

Dimensions:

Flat before seaming: 9 in tall, 7 ½ in wide

Tube, after seaming: 9 in tall, 3 ½  in wide

Gauge: 14 sts and 12 rows = 4 inches in arm pattern

Boring Mumbo Jumbo section (same as version 1.0 except no Tr crochet)

Stitches used:

SC- single crochet

SC BLO – single crochet back loop only

SC FLO – single crochet front loop only

HDC BLO – half double crochet back loop only

HDC 3^rd LIF – half double crochet through 3^rd Loop In Front

DC – double crochet

Method:

The arm is worked first, then you turn your work ¼ turn clockwise to work the hand. The thumb is created by skipping stitches and making a chain as a bridge over those stitches. These mitts are worked flat and seamed when finishing.

Pattern Oddities and Necessary Blathering:

- I don’t skip the first stitch in every row when doing HDC. I treat it like a SC, really. This keeps edges tidy and less holey. Even though we’re seaming the edges, it’s not a place you want holes.

- I only ch1 for my turning chain on HDC.  I think the fabric looks nicer.

-The last stitch of every row is worked as you normal would (under both loops/legs). This keeps your edges tidy and less holey.

-The stitches for the arm are SC but worked in BLO and FLO. The hand portion is mostly HDC, but worked in either the BLO or through the 3^rd loop in the front (LIF).

If the BLO, FLO, or LIF terms frighten you, here are some wonderful video explanations:

SC BLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsd8K5MghDQ                   

SC FLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jM5Me5U2dnE

HDC BLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSArrbxzOhA

HDC 3^rd Loop in Front (LIF) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2nyqJZBfvA and a nice blog post about this elusive stitch it at http://crochetpatterncompanion.blogspot.com/2014/06/how-to-crochet-into-that-third-loop-or.html

Ok enough with the boring mumbojumbo, let’s start crocheting!!

PATTERN

ARM:

Foundation Row:

1. ch  21 (or if you do chainless foundations, FSC 20, turn and go to Row 1)

2. Starting in the second chain of your hook, SC 20 stitches, turn.

Row 1 (RS) – ch 1, SC BLO 19, SC in last st, turn. (20)

Row 2 (WS) – ch 1, SC FLO 19, SC in last st, turn. (20)

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you have worked 21 rows. (end with a RS row)

This fit around my forearm nicely (the short way – it will be on its side) without being frumpy. For arms and hands bigger or smaller than mine, you can make adjustments by making more or fewer rows, but please note that you will also have to make adjustments when time to do the hand portion by making more or fewer stitches. I have not tested any other sizes.

BOTH HANDS:

With RS facing, turn work ¼ turn clockwise and Ch 1, then work 23 HDC evenly into the edge, turn. Doing this row in the same color as the arm gives you a cleaner transition into the second color. 

see how clean color change is on the left 2.0 compared to the right 1.0

Row 1 (WS) – If you are using a new color for hand, attach it now which counts as a ch 1 (cut your arm yarn, leaving 18 inch tail for seaming later). If you are not changing colors, then ch 1 and don’t cut your yarn. 

Not skipping the first stitch, work HDC into the 3^rd LIF all 23 sts, turn. (23)

Proceed to the left hand / right hand instructions.

LEFT HAND:

Row 2 (RS) – ((thumbhole row)) ch 1, HDC BLO 5, DC 1, ch 5 , skip the 5 sts under them, DC 1, HDC BLO 10, HDC 1, turn. (23)

Row 3 (WS) – ch 1, HDC LIF 12, HDC into back bumps of each ch (5), HDC LIF 5, HDC 1, turn. (23)

Row 4 (RS) – ch 1, HDC BLO 22, HDC 1, turn. (23)

Row 5 (WS) – ch 1, HDC LIF 22, HDC 1, turn. (23)

Row 6 (RS) – work as row 4

Row 7 (WS) – work as row 5

Cut yarn, leaving a tail to seam with. Give yourself 24 inches or so tail to seam with if you used 1 color for your mitts. If you did hand in different color you only need 10 inches or so to seam it, and then you’ll pick up your other color tail to seam the arm portion.

RIGHT HAND:

Row 2 (RS) - ((thumbhole row)) ch 1, HDC BLO 11, DC 1, ch 5, skip the 5 sts under them, DC 1, HDC BLO 4, HDC 1, turn. (23)

Row 3 (WS) – ch 1, HDC LIF 6, HDC into the back bumps of each ch (5), HDC LIF 11, HDC 1, turn. (23)

Row 4 (RS) – ch 1, HDC BLO 22, HDC 1, turn. (23)

Row 5 (WS) – ch 1, HDC LIF 22, HDC 1, turn. (23)

Row 6 (RS) – Work as row 4

Row 7 (WS) – Work as row 5

Cut yarn, leaving a tail to seam with. Give yourself 24 inches or so tail to seam with if you used 1 color for your mitts. If you did hand in different color you only need 10 inches or so to seam it, and then you’ll pick up your other color tail to seam the arm portion.

Finishing Instructions for both mitts:

Weave in ends. Fold mitts with RS out and sew your seams shut, then weave in your seam tail ends.

 Good work!!!!

Please let me know if you have any questions. This pattern has been checked and edited but if you think there are errors, let me know! :)

Pattern coming up today 9/29---

Whats on Deck - ?

1. I just put up what i hope is a helpful video on fixing dropped stitches. (click here). I feel its important to know how to do this, and I think its one of the Top 5 Things a New Knitter should know. Please ask questions if anything is unclear.


2. I might be tweaking my Mrs. Fitz Crocheted Mitts pattern. I was happy with it when I posted it, but I learned a little trick which might improve it in a very small way. Maybe not. I also got a different yarn which is from the same weight category but has 30 yards less per skein. Might not sound like a big deal, but it is, so I'd like to see how it looks in this pattern, or how it might affect it. It's also plied, so it will look different.

3. Maybe another pair of Outlander-inspired mitts. I can't tell you what character yet. It's a secret. Sshhhhhh.

Mrs.Fitz Inspired Mini Mitts Crocheted Version Outlander - Free Pattern- Version 1.0

 Mrs. Fitz Mini Mitts – Crochet Version 

Well it took a bit of meandering but I finally got results I'm happy with. I had recently put up a knitted pattern of Mrs. Fitz' mitts, and wanted to then work up a crocheted version. Initially I set out to make them as similar as possible (knit sts and crochet sts don't really look the same), but these sort of developed, and I like them, so I just went with the flow. They still look like something you could wear while toddling about the castle, but a bit dressier.

 Perhaps Mrs. Fitz would wear them on a night out.

I hope you like them too!

Hook:

5.5 mm / US size i

Yarn:  Malabrigo Mecha 

UPDATE***********This yarn is classified as bulky weight, but if you have yarn that is even bulkier, I will be posting an alteration of this pattern for a bigger gauge on 9/29/14***********

Malabrigo Mecha merino wool 1 skein (130 yards/100 grams) is just enough for 1 pair if doing in 1 color at this size. If you need to make pattern adjustments for a larger size, you would need 2 skeins/extra yardage. I got 2 skeins (260 yards) so I could combine 2 colors.

Size: Women’s medium

Dimensions:

Flat before seaming : 8 ½ in tall, 7 ¼ in wide

Tube, after seaming:  8 ½ in tall, 3 ¼ in wide

Gauge: 16-17 stitches and 14 rows = 4 inches in arm pattern

Stitches used:

SC- single crochet

SC BLO – single crochet back loop only

SC FLO – single crochet front loop only

HDC BLO – half double crochet back loop only

HDC 3^rd LIF – half double crochet through 3^rd Loop In Front

DC – double crochet

TR – treble crochet

Method:

The arm is worked first, then you turn your work ¼ turn clockwise to work the hand. The thumb is created by skipping stitches and making a chain as a bridge over those stitches. These mitts are worked flat and seamed when finishing.

Pattern Oddities and Necessary Blathering:

- I don’t skip the first stitch in every row when doing HDC. I treat it like a SC, really. This keeps edges tidy and less holey. Even though we’re seaming the edges, it’s not a place you want holes.

- I only ch1 for my turning chain on HDC.  I think the fabric looks nicer.

-The last stitch of every row is worked as you normal would (under both loops/legs). This keeps your edges tidy and less holey.

-The stitches for the arm are SC but worked in BLO and FLO. The hand portion is mostly HDC, but worked in either the BLO or through the 3^rd loop in the front (LIF).

If the BLO, FLO, or LIF terms frighten you, here are some wonderful video explanations:

SC BLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsd8K5MghDQ                   

SC FLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jM5Me5U2dnE

HDC BLO - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSArrbxzOhA

HDC 3^rd Loop in Front - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2nyqJZBfvA 

and a nice blog post about this elusive stitch it at http://crochetpatterncompanion.blogspot.com/2014/06/how-to-crochet-into-that-third-loop-or.html

PATTERN

  

ARM:

Foundation Row:

1.  Chain 25 (or if you do chainless foundations, FSC 24, turn and go to Row 1)
2. Starting in the second chain of your hook, SC 24 stitches turn.

Row 1 (RS) - ch 1, SC BLO 23, regular SC in last st, turn (24)

Row 2 (WS) - ch 1, SC FLO 23, regular SC in last st, turn (24)

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you have 25 rows. (End with a RS row)

At my gauge this was 7 ¼ inches tall in total including the foundation row. This fit around my forearm nicely (the short way – it will be on its side) without being frumpy. For arms and hands bigger or smaller than mine, you can make adjustments by making more or fewer rows, but please note that you will also have to make adjustments when time to do the hand portion by making more or fewer stitches. I have not tested any other sizes.

HAND:

If you are going to make your hand with a different color, cut your arm yarn now, leaving an 18 inch tail for seaming later. If all one color, don’t cut.

With RS facing, turn work ¼ turn clockwise and attach new yarn color in the upper right hand stitch.

Work 27 HDC evenly into this edge, turn.

Row 1 (WS) – ch 1, not skipping the first stitch, work HDC into the 3^rd LIF for 26 sts, and work the last HDC as normal, turn. (27)

Row 2 (RS) – ((thumbhole row)) ch 1, HDC BLO 8, DC 1, Tr 1, make a chain of 6, skip the 6 sts under them, Tr 1, DC 1, HDC BLO 8, HDC last st, turn. (27)

Left pic shows the stitches and the ch6 before the “jump” for the thumbhole. Right pic shows the completed Tr after the jump. Note the 6 skipped stitches. The Tr is worked into the 7th st.

Row 3 (WS) – ch 1, not skipping the first stitch, work HDC into the 3^rd LIF 11 sts, HDC into the back bump of each ch st (6), HDC into the 3^rd LIF 9 sts,  and work the last HDC as normal, turn. (27)

Row 4 (RS) – ch 1, not skipping the first stitch, work HDC BLO 26 sts, and work the last HDC as normal, turn. (27)

Row 5 (WS) – work as Row 1

Row 6 (RS) – work as Row 4

Repeat rows 5 and 6 until hand portion reaches 2 inches tall and ending on a RS row. Cut yarn, leaving a tail to seam with. Give yourself 24 inches or so tail to seam with if you used 1 color for your mitts. If you did hand in different color you only need 10 inches or so to seam it, and then you’ll pick up your other color tail to seam the arm portion.

Before you do your seam, however, weave in your ends. It’s just easier that way.

Right Side

Wrong side

Use clips while seaming

SEAMING:

Then, fold WS together. Using clips/locking stitch markers to line up the stitches and hold your work together while you seam is a good idea, removing as you approach them. Use them as checkpoints to make sure you are seaming equally so your mitt seams won’t be lopsided. I used a mattress stitch.

Here’s a good video if you need some help with that:

http://youtu.be/xzl7IpgTtXQ

Weave in your seaming yarn tail ends.

PAT YOURSELF ON THE BACK (with your toasty mitts on, of course).

Update 10/14/14: I also did a slight modification for a wrist warmer - you can find the pattern alteration here. 

This pattern has been tested and spot checked. Please alert me to any suspected errors, or if you have any questions at all. Project file can also be found on Ravelry.

update on crocheted mrs fitz mini mitts

Still need to do some tweaking, but overall i'm happy with the result. i will put up pattern here and through ravelry when ready.

Next Pattern in Progress: Mrs. Fitz Mini Mitts Crocheted Version

i hope to have them done and the pattern written up this wknd. i'm using malabrigo mecha with I/5.5mm hook. :)

Outlander Inspired Crocheted Claire Shrug

Hello all! Here is a crocheted version inspired by the shrug Claire was wearing when she first met Geillis. I posted a knitted version several posts back, and I used the same yarn for this one. The stitch pattern develops from alternating front-loop-only (FLO) and back-loop-only (BLO) rows all in HDC.

If you are a beginner don't let those terms scare you. Here are great videos by CrochetEverAfter to explain how to do the FLO and BLO in HDC.

 I hope you like it!

HOOK: J HOOK / 6.0 MM

YARN: ARAN WEIGHT - BERROCO PERUVIA COLORS 2 SKEINS (348 YARDS)

Gauge: 13 stitches and 11 rows = 4 inches

Size: Medium Women's

Dimensions: 12 inches tall, 33 inches wide

PATTERN:

Set up rows:

1. Chain 110 (or if you do a foundation row, work 109 FHDC, turn and go to Row 1)

2. Starting in the 2nd chain from your hook, work a row of HDC, turn (109 st)

DO NOT SKIP TO THE 2ND STITCH WHEN WORKING YOUR HDC'S FOR THE REMAINDER OF THIS PROJECT (why? because it looks better if you work into the first stitch, just like you would for a SC)

Row 1 (wrong side): Ch 1, Work HDC in BLO until you have 1 st left, do a HDC into that last stitch under both loops instead of just the BL, turn. (109 st)

Row 2 (right side) : Ch 1, Work HDC in FLO until you have 1 st left, do a HDC into that last stitch under both loops instead of just the FL, turn. (109 st)

why work that last HDC into both legs/loops at the end of every row? because your edges will look better than if you work that final stitch through the BL or FL

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have 12 inch tall piece of fabric. For me this was 30 rows. End with a right side row (row 2). why end with a row 2? because it doesn't curl outwards like row 1 does.

Figure out how long you want your underarm seams to be. I used hair clips to hold the fabric while trying it on. My underarm seams were 5 inches. I did a simple seam, nothing fancy.

Weave in your ends.

Extra Notes and Stuff:

Pattern is also on Ravelry http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/claire-crocheted-shrug-starz-outlander-inspired

If you need to change the dimensions, like make the arms longer or the back longer, etc, you will need more yarn than what I used. I used up nearly the whole 2 skeins of my berroco on this, so if you are using this yarn and you wanted to make a bigger shrug, you would need 3 skeins. I estimated every row takes about 10 yards of yarn but don't hold me to that.

What if you like the wrong side better than the right side? Choose whatever side you like to face outwards. I prefer the right side stitches to face out, thats all. Its your shrug so you do what you want! :)

Mrs. Fitz Mini Mitts Free Pattern - Outlander Inspired

These mitts are based on Mrs. Fitz's mitts from Starz Outlander, but just much shorter and looking a bit more modern with these colors. I was using up scrap yarn and the mismatching was intentional and very much a look that i enjoy. 

Hope you have lots of fun using odd bits of scrap yarn or whatever you like to make these. 

YARN: Malabrigo Mecha (Bulky)

YARDAGE: About 91 - 100 yards. My mitts weigh in at 70 grams, which, for this yarn, means I used 91 yards.

Needles: US 9 / 5mm

Gauge: 13 st = 4 inches, 19 rows = 4 inches

Size: I'm a medium/average, I'd reckon, and these fit perfectly. 

This pattern is how I made mine. Depending on your preferences and size, you can alter it easily. Experiment and have fun!

Knitted flat and then seamed. You make your thumbhole by not seaming that section.

PATTERN:

Cast on 22 stitches

Knit "stockinette" (knit on RS, purl on WS) for 6 inches, changing yarns as often as you please.

At 6 inches, start "garter stitches" which means you just knit every row for 1 1/2 inches.

Bind off, preferably with a stretchy type of bindoff, like Jeny's Superstretchy Bind off - here's a great video tutorial if you are interested.

Time to seam:  You probably want to weave in any ends at this point before you start seaming. I seamed with the mattress stitch, and here's a great video on that if you'd like to try it.

While seaming, keep trying it on. I cannot tell you exactly where to leave a thumbhole, or how big the thumbhole should be. (My thumbhole is about 2 inches long - you want to make sure you make it long enough so your thumb can move comfortably.)Seam up to that point, leave it unseamed where your thumb will be, then start a new seam for the hand. Weave in your ends.

Put them on and get a mug of hot cocoa!

Any questions just ask.

Pattern is on Ravelry as well.

Sassenach Claire Outlander Crochet Cowl - Free Pattern

Don't i look smug! Well i was definitely feeling that way!

After sharing my knitted pattern of Claire's Cowl, quite a few people asked for a crocheted version. The knitted cowl is in garter stitch, of which there is no real equivalent in crochet. So after some experimenting and some results that were not quite what I wanted, I came up with this pattern, which I feel comes about as close as possible to the knitted version, both in appearance and drape. I really like it and I hope you do too!

My enigmatic look. Terrible isnt it.

Doubles nicely as a hood.

HOOK SIZE: 16mm/Q (big, yes)

YARN: Super bulky 212 yards (2 skeins)

GAUGE: 4 inches = 6 stitches

FINISHED SIZE: 12 inches wide, 14 inches tall

The yarn I used is Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick Super Bulky in Barley. It is the same yarn I used for the knitted cowl. Two/2 skeins. Unlike the knitted cowl, this crocheted cowl is worked with one strand.

Key:

FDC = foundation double crochet
FPDC = front post double crochet
BPDC = back post double crochet
SS = slip stich

THIS PATTERN IS WORKED IN THE ROUND AS A TUBE.

There are 2 ways of starting, depending on your comfort level. You can do the traditional chain, or you can do a FDC. Either way you join for working in the round. Here is an excellent video about FDC by CrochetEverAfter on youtube: FDC how to

UPDATED: I did end up doing a crochetalong/tutorial. I hope you will find it helpful. Click here.

PATTERN:

(I crocheted this with a very relaxed tension, so as to mimic the floppiness of Claire's knitted cowl. Please check your gauge)

Chain 34 (or FDC 34)

SS to your first chain to join, making sure your length of chains is not twisted. (again, if you do FDC just join to the chain and skip to Round 2)

Round 1: Ch 2 (yes. 2. not 3. serves as first DC), DC into FIRST chain from the hook (do not skip chains as you normally would), and DC in all remaining chains. (34)

Round 2 and all subsequent rounds: *FPDC, BPDC* (34 stitches every round, starting with FPDC and ending with BPDC)

Do not turn your work, do not make turning chains at the beginning of the rounds. Just keep going around and around and around like a spiral.

Finish, weave in ends, and enjoy!

****I just got a great question from rebelcake on youtube: "How do you know where to tie it off when it's finished? Is there a closing stitch?"

I've tried it several different ways and they all seem to work well. You can finish at the end of a round, or not. You can finish with the last BPDC, or you can finish with a regular SC (being a shorter stitch it can make the join look smoother). They both look good either way, so please feel free to experiment with what looks best for your cowl. If you are unhappy with your join, there are nice tricks to make the end smoother. Liat has a great tutorial on hiding the bind-off join for knitting, which is essentially the same approach for crochet.


EXTRA NOTES AND STUFF:

I continued mine until I reached about 14 inches height, which was 16 rounds for me. It was long enough to act as a hood/snood. I still had enough yarn left over to do probably another 2 rounds. (I believe it takes 12 yards of this yarn to make 1 round, but don't hold me to that).

If you want to make a chain ("turning chain" though you are not turning) at the end of every round, I don't think that would be a problem. I did not do it that way and was happy with the way it turned out.

You don't have to make it as tall as I have. You control how tall you want to make this. Just keep going around until you want to stop. At my gauge, 1 skein of yarn would make at least 8 inches tall cowl. It's up to you! Since there is no bind off row with crochet, you just stop wherever you want.

Any questions just ask!

This pattern is also on Ravelry, along with my other Outlander-inspired patterns.

 "och, its too beg for meh, lass!" says Pocket Jamie

Claire's Cowl - Crochet Version - Sassenach Outlander

UPDATE: Just a quick note that I finished working up my version of Claire's Cowl in crochet. This is intended to resemble, as closely as possible, her chunky knit cowl which is in garter stitch. 

It is very squishy and floppy like the knit version. I spent a lot of time these past few days experimenting with different crochet stitches and construction, and I learned a lot. I am very pleased with the results!

I will write up the pattern and provide better pics (daylight helps) in the next day or two. Will also post on Ravelry.

:)